INSTALLATION

To be assured of a wonderful finished decking or outdoor project that will provide you a lifetime of enjoyment and enduring beauty, please use the following approach to plan, install, and care for your project.

ORDERING

Robi Decking ® supplies multiple width and length boards. To determine the linear feet (LF) and number of boards needed, calculate the square footage of your deck then use this calculator to determine the size of the order.

A shortage could occur in cutting, trimming, and waste so please add 15% additional length to the calculation prior to ordering.

To determine what quantities of decking and accessories you need for your project, please see our Decking Calculator, the calculator includes the 15% overage.

For information about typical shipping rates and delivery times, please visit our Shipping page.

ACCLIMATION

Once your order arrives, the wood is immediately ready for installation. As our decking is kiln dried, until installation, keep the boards out of the sunlight and out of the open weather with plenty of air flow until the boards are ready to be installed and finished. We suggest storing the boards inside a garage or under a covered shed. Also, keep the boards away from direct contact with the ground and do not store the boards with a tarp over them, or wrapped in plastic as these actions will prevent air flow. If storing on the ground, ensure that the boards are at least 24″ off the ground with no moisture under them.

PRE-FINISHING, SANDING, AND CLEANING (OPTIONAL)

These are optional steps, but steps that we suggest to ensure the durability and appearance of your deck with minimal maintenance.

After the acclimation period and before fastening the boards, we recommend spot sanding each board (an 80 grit sandpaper works best). Sanding will allow any minor marks, scratches or surface imperfections in the boards to blend for a more balanced appearance and will make the boards even smoother. Sanding should be done with the grain of the board.

Once the boards are sanded, we suggest sweeping the boards of dust then clean the boards with a deck cleaner on all sides. Allow the boards to dry for at least 24 hours.

Once the boards are dry, we recommend oiling/staining the boards on all six sides.

We recommend that all optional steps be completed prior to fastening boards for an easier installation and a more complete coverage of oil/stain.

WORKING WITH THE WOOD

Robi Decking® boards can be cut and machined with standard woodworking tools. Carbide tipped cutters are recommended for best results. All end cuts should be coated with a protective wax such as Robi® End Seal to prevent checking. Take care to apply your end cut product only to the end grains of the boards, not the face of the boards, and do this immediately after making the end cuts for best results.

INSTALLING YOUR BOARDS

Do not construct your deck without ground side ventilation. Proper air circulation beneath the deck is critical to dimensional stability. A minimum of two feet (24 inches) of unobstructed airspace under the deck is essential. Boards requiring straightening should be clamped in the desired position until properly fastened. A bow wrench will work well. Tongue & Groove decking should only be installed in a screened in or covered environment with no exposure to moisture to the wood.

To ensure the deck substructure lasts as long as the decking boards, joist tape is recommended to be placed between the top of the joist and the decking boards.

Also, ensure that the Black Locust boards and other species do not touch ferrous metal or are placed in an area where rain will deflect off of ferrous metals. Ferrous metals contain mostly iron and have small amounts of other metals or elements added, to give the required properties. Ferrous metals are magnetic and most hardwoods will stain black due to the chemical reaction with ferrous metals.

JOIST SPACING AND BOARD SPACING

Black Locust: Due to the strength of Black Locust, it can span more than other woods reducing your framing costs. For our actual 1″ thick boards we suggest 24″ on center for joist spacing. For our actual 13/16″ thick boards we suggest 16″ on center for joist spacing. Our 2 x 6 material that is actual 1-1/2″ thick can span 32″ on center for joist spacing. Boards should be installed with slight spacing for drainage–1/4″ for spacing between boards. Ends of the boards should butt flush against each other. Minimal movement can be expected following installation.

For our Sassafras that are 1″ decking boards, we suggest 16″ on center for joist spacing and 1/4″ for spacing between boards. Ends of the boards should butt flush against each other. Minimal movement can be expected following installation.

BOARD FASTENING METHODS

Fastening your boards to your deck’s substructure is an important decision. The strongest and best method of fastening hardwood decking boards is with the appropriate stainless steel deck screws. This will provide maximum fastening power and maintain the position of the boards over time.

Board Screw-Down Method A:

The traditional approach has been to pre-drill the holes and then screw the boards into the frame. Pre-drill fastener pilot holes 7/8 of the actual screw size. Use a drill bit designed to extract stock during the drilling. If you would like the screw heads flush with the boards, the pre-drill should include a countersink preparation as well.

Board Screw-Down Method B:

A recent breakthrough in deck screw technology has been developed. This deck fastening method is performed with a deck screw that provides 3-in-1 drilling, countersinking and screwing all in one step. Although the deck screw heads are visible, they may be countersunk to your preferred depth in the board. Please note these screws are very expensive and this is typically done for very large decks or boardwalks.

Hidden Deck Fastener Method C:

This method of deck fastening provides a clean look to the deck surface because no screw heads appear on the surface of your deck. This process is very time consuming and requires the use of a biscuit joiner or for the boards to be pre-grooved.

Screw and Plug Method Method D:

Please note this is very time consuming, but results in a very clean look:

Countersink a 3/8” hole into the face of the deck board
Pre-drill a pilot hole straight through the board using a 1/8’ drill bit
Screw the deck boards so they hold firm to the joist
Use wood plugs to fill the holes. 3/8” deck plugs are available from us
Use a waterproof glue (e.g., Epoxy or Gorilla™ brand of wood glue) and glue the wood plug into the hole
Any exposed portion of the wood plug can either be sawed or chiseled and then sanded until smooth

Side Screwing Method E:

With expert installation we suggest the CAMO and the Kreg Deck Jig where the boards are screwed at an angle so you don’t see the screw heads.

Tongue and Groove boards can be installed with stainless steel staples.

SANDING/CLEANING

If you did not sand and clean the boards prior to installation, you can do this now that the boards are installed.

We recommend sanding each board (an 80 grit sandpaper works best). This will allow any minor marks, scratches or surface imperfections in the boards to blend for a more even appearance and make the boards smooth. Sanding should be done with the grain of the board.

Once the boards are sanded, we suggest sweeping the boards and then cleaning the boards with a deck cleaner on all sides, and then allowing the boards to dry for at least 24 hours. Once the boards are dry, we recommend oiling/staining the boards.

OILING AND STAINING

Now that your deck is sanded and clean you can complete the optional final step and finish your deck. If you choose to let deck age naturally to a patina color, we still recommend you apply one application of a finish. Due to the density and tight grain of Black Locust, many finishes and oils will not work on it, leaving the wood with a sticky feel. So we set out to develop blends specially made for Black Locust that combine all natural ingredients into a very low VOC finish. These same finishes will work on all species.

Robi® Oil is a tung oil based finish combining citrus solvent and pine needle resin. All ingredients are all natural with zero VOCs. The oil brings out the natural beauty and grain detail of the wood, dries quickly, and also contains natural UV inhibitors to delay aging. The great thing about Robi® Oil, is that when the wood needs to re-finished after 1 to 5 years, depending on the environment, all you have to do is a simple clean and just re-apply. No sanding. No striping of the old finish.

Robi® Blend (medium brown tint) and Robi® Patina Now (light grey tint) are water based finishes. Since the formula is water based, it contains less than 2% VOCs. Both offer long lasting, deep penetrating protection. Blend and Patina Now are formulated with aliphatic polyurethane for exterior and interior surfaces to create a formula that increases abrasion resistance and provides additional UV protection to the semi transparent stains. The formula is easy to apply, dries quickly, and stains the wood. When the wood needs to re-finished after 1 to 5 years, depending on the environment, all you have to do is a simple clean and just re-apply. No sanding. No striping of the old finish.

ACCESSORIES

We offer a variety of accessories specifically designed for Black Locust and Sassafras wood products. Visit our Accessories page to see all of stains, finishes, screws, and fasteners available from Robi Decking.

PERMEABLE PAVER INSTALLATION

Ready to install Robi End-Grain Permeable Wood Pavers? It’s easier than you think.

Download Paver Installation Details.

INSTALLATION

To be assured of a wonderful finished decking or outdoor project that will provide you a lifetime of enjoyment and enduring beauty, please use the following approach to plan, install, and care for your project.

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